Alice Berry      454-3815   Design   Phil Bishop          967-4626      Finishing
           Tom Church    967-4460   Turning   Harry May           962-0215      Carving
           Bob Reese      728-7974   Sharpening Ross Roepke       455-9140      Joinery

Henry Davis made legs for sitting the box that holds the clubs’ tent.  It can be utilized as a table when the legs are under it.

Doyle McConnell came back from Utah crafts supply and they have branched out with another catalog for turning and he brought some in for us to see.  Doyle said that Chris Stott from England made a turning of small women, which involved offset turning, and he showed that.  He said in Utah turning has evolved into an art form.  He went to the turning school there for 4 full days from 8A.M. till P.M. every day.  He saw a new way to make bowls called nested bowls to utilize more of the wood.

Ray Torstenson showed us how he uses suede to hold items that he is sanding so they will not move.

Dave White made a routor table out of Walnut and a couple of other types wood.

Bob Leonard neighbor bought 2 chairs and he brought one in to see if anyone had a good idea of how to make them more comfortable.  The suggestion was cut off 2 inches from the back legs.  Bob said he wished designers would be forced to use what they design and maybe the designs would be more comfortable.

Matt Brothers made 2 Jewelry boxes, one out of Walnut and Birdseye maple and one out of Walnut and Cherry.  He used 95-degree hinges on them so that he did not have to use chains.

Don Miller showed a Walnut bowl and a natural edge bowl.  He also made a mahogany goblet and a Maple pen.

Hugh Hurst brought in a walnut bowl and a holly bowl that he got out of Tom Cowans reject pile.  He used one coat of bleach on the holly bowl.  He also figured the edges of both bowls.  He also showed a picture of a child’s cradle he had done a long while ago.

Harold Hewgley brought in a turned vases made from apple and a goblet and cup.

 Okay, I'll admit it. My shop here at WOOD® magazine has nearly every type of tool, jig,
 and accessory ever invented. So drilling pocket holes in the bottom shelf frames of a
 display stand I recently made didn't present a problem.

 Now, that's easy for me to say, but I know that you may not own a pocket-hole jig. And
 usually, that's not a problem—you just substitute another form of joinery, say biscuits or
 dowels, in place of the pocket screws. But sometimes, as with the display stand, only a
 pocket-hole joint will do. Then, do as I did in my pre-pockethole-jig days. Simply drill a
 series of holes—without assistance from a jig—that form a pocket hole. This doesn't go fast,
 but it sure gets you by.

 —Chuck Hedlund, WOOD Shop Manager

 First, drill the shank and screwhead holes
 Select a twist bit—those with pilot points work best—that matches, or is just slightly larger
 than, the diameter of the screw you will be using. In this example, we used a #8x1-1/2" screw
 requiring a 5/32" shank hole. Chuck the bit into a handheld drill.
 On the end grain of the piece of wood that will be drilled for a
pocket hole, mark the exit point of the screw. As shown in
photo at left, we marked the exit point 1/4" from the edge of a
3/4"-thick workpiece. Then, mark a line on the edge of the
piece that angles 25° from the exit point. This is the path of
the screw. Start the drill bit at the exit point, angle it to follow
the path line, and drill until the bit emerges from the face of
the workpiece.

 Center a 3/4" Forstner bit on the hole where the bit emerged from the workpiece face. Drill straight down to a depth of about 1/4" to make room for the screwhead.

Assemble the joint

Align the two workpieces, then clamp a scrapwood positioning
block, as shown in photo at left. This stops the pocket-hole
workpiece from sliding during assembly.

If you have access to special pocket-hole screws, you can
drive them right into most woods. But, if you're working with a
dense wood, or using conventional screws, you'll need to drill
pilot holes into the undrilled workpiece. To do this, simply
align the workpieces with the positioning block clamped in
place, then use the shank hole to guide the pilot-hole bit. Our
#8 screw requires a 7/64" pilot hole in hardwood, a 3/32" pilot hole in softwood.
WOOD On-line
 
 
 
 

Not a magnificent shrub in stature, girth, or symmetry, the commonmanzanita (Arctostaphytos manzanita) still stands out against itsCalifornia habitat. The brown chaparral and bleak earth    backgroundhighlight the manzanita's remarkably smooth, tight-fitting skin of darkred on its trunk and intertwined branches.

Rarely more than 30' tall at maturity, this native of the dry inlandmountains sports an evergreen crown often spreading as wide as itsheight. Come the winter rainy season, it puts all competitors to shamewith showy white or light pink blooms. Later in the year, its twisted
limbs bear tiny fruits, which the state's Spanish-speaking pioneersdubbed "little apples," thus giving the plant its present name. With its gnarled shape and squat trunk, the manzanita never attracts lumbermen. Local crafters, however, find the manzanita's branches appealing in floral arrangements. But in the roots they discover perhaps manzanita's most intriguing aspect. Beneath the ground lies a fascinating burl that, when sawn, cleaned, and polished, can pass for ceramics or marble.  (Lest burl collectors decimate the manzanita, permits are required to dig specimens on California's federal lands.)
Under the woodturner's touch, this "mountain driftwood" evolves into naturally colorful weed
pots and vases. But beware of this beauty. The burls frequently grow around rocks that
remain undetected until suddenly hit by a turning tool!
 

 If you buy lumber pre-planed to thickness, your craving for a jointer probably pops up only
 when it comes time to edge joint boards. Here’s a method for making perfect edge joints with a
 router and 1/2" straight or downcut spiral router bit.

 (Note: The router bit is cutting in both directions at the same time, making it grabby during this
 operation. Proceed with caution and remove as little material as possible on the climb-cutting
 side.)

Clamp the boards you want to join to the jaws of a clamping workstation (such as a Workmate), leaving 1/4" or so of the workpieces overhanging the jaw opening. Close the jaws until
the boards are edge to edge, and make witness marks across the joint. The straightedge is set to remove less than 1/32" from the right-hand board.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Open the jaws of the workstation so that the gap between the workpieces is parallel and 7/16" wide. Rout the mating edges of both pieces with one pass of your router, guiding it along the
straightedge. Both sides of the cut will match as long as you align your witness marks when gluing up the assembly.
 
 
 
 

We want to welcome Karen Kerce as a member of our Club. Karen lives in Manchester and is a teacher at Coffee County High School. Before moving to Manchester Karen was in the business of restoring old homes in the Nashville area.   Welcome Karen.

The subject of name tags came up at the last meeting. Our name tags were made by K&S TROPHIES , 510 Country Club Drive , Tullahoma. They were about $5.00 including tax the last time we checked. When in Tullahoma you can go by and have one made. The tags are 1" x 3" with white letters on a blue background. Just tell the folks that you want a Tennessee Valley Woodworkers name tag. If you are never in Tullahoma, Henry Davis will be happy to take care of it for you, see him at the  meeting or give him a call at 393 - 3191.

To show our appreciation to our loyal and faithful members your Executive Committee has again this year decided to give a prize to one lucky member.
To be eligible to win the lathe just sign the drawing register at each regular club meeting that you attend between now and December. That means that if you attended the January meeting and attend every meeting from now through November your name will be in the drawing 11 times.

American Association of Woodturners

Scott Phillips Video Help sessions

Arrowmont School of Arts and Craft

Loyd Ackerman's Page

WOOD ONLINE newsletter

Falls Mill

Appalachain Center for the Arts

Forest Products Lab. 1999 Wood Handbook

Woodworker's Journal

WOOD Online TVWW page

Kevin's Woodturnings

The Oldham Company

The Woodworker's Choice

Russell Brown's Web Page